Pinotage, Cloof. South Africa

If the coastal areas of Constantia and Stellenbosch resemble temperate French wine regions, Darling’s fierce climate has more in common with Spain. Gnarled bush vines push their roots down eight metres into the soil in search of moisture, while the summer sun impels the grapes to concentrated ripeness.

This is not white wine territory, but the results for reds are brilliant: heady blends of fruit and savoury flavours, firm ripe tannins, and fresh acidity preserved by the cool night-time temperatures.

Cloof is an exemplary ambassador for this exciting region, both for the quality of its wines and its overall approach: the winery has just earned the coveted Biodiversity Champion title for its commitment to preserving the local environment.